We enclose a cutout edge on the neck or arm with a receipt.
Finally summer: self-sewn sleeveless blouses, tops and dresses are a must! And again and again the question arises how the neckline and armholes can be bordered. I would like to show you here how you can border such a cutout edge very nicely with a narrow receipt. In other posts I will also introduce you to others, such as bias binding.
For the cut-out processing with receipt you need:
Front and back of your top / blouse / dress (I use Brigitte Heitland’s dress cut on the BERNINA blog)
light iron-on insert
Paper or printouts of the cutting pattern on which the edge to be bound is on (in my example, side 1 of the cutting pattern twice)
Now draw a line at a distance of 2 cm (or narrower) to the cutout edge on the pattern, here drawn in green …
… and then cut out the parts exactly. Be sure to label them with “front” or “rear”, “fabric break” and “thread run”. With the small parts you like to get confused and you don’t know where to start the material break (I speak from experience!)
You now place these parts in the fabric break on your leftover fabric and cut them out with your seam allowance (probably 1 cm).
You now position these cut-out parts to warp them on the ironing insert and roughly cut the insert to size – do not iron on yet.
Now put baking paper over it (I always have a sheet of it with me on the ironing table; it can be used for a very long time) and carefully iron on the insert.
Carefully peel off the parchment paper.
Then the protruding insert can be cut off and your cut pieces are correctly ironed with iron insert. With this method you save yourself the laborious cutting of the ironing insert according to the pattern – it tends to get crooked and crooked. Since only a thin fleece is used for the receipt, the entire receipt can be ironed with a hanger insert. If the insert is thicker, the insert should be smaller by the seam allowance.
You can also remove a slip pattern from your pattern at any time: To do this, place the corresponding cutout edge on a sheet of paper, follow the line and then proceed as described above.
The sewing of the receipt
Now the cut pieces are sewn together on the shoulder. The outer curves (and if you like the shoulder seam as well) are overcast.
You now place this structure on the dress, which is also sewn together at the shoulders, so that the shoulder seams come to rest on each other. One shoulder seam looks to the front, the other to the back – they “snap” into one another, so to speak.
Now the cover is sewn on all around with the selected seam allowance. You then cut this seam allowance back to approx. 0.3-0.5 cm, if possible do not cut it, this may look afterwards. not looking nice.
The receipt comes inside
Now you fold the sewn-on receipt neatly upwards over the cut back seam allowance and attach the receipt to the seam allowance underneath. You do this all around the whole neckline – do not iron yet!
Now the receipt is stitched onto the cut back seam allowance. For this so-called “understitch seam” I like to use edging foot # 10 and adjust the needle position by two places.
This is what this seam looks like on the document.
Through this understitch seam, the document almost “falls” inwards by itself. Therefore fold the slip inwards at the seam edge “dress slip” and first preform with your fingers …
and only then is the iron used. Iron so that the receipt is correctly inside.
Now the receipt is lying nicely, but it doesn’t stay that way.
Stitch the document in place
I like to attach the receipt with a seam that I quilt from the outside, i.e. from the dress. First I think about whether I would like the receipt in this width. here I sewn away just under an inch with the Overlocl. Then I pin the ironed receipt correctly with pins.
The receipt is then quilted at a constant distance from the edge of the neck. You can use the markings on your needle plate or a spacer to help. In my picture you can see that I topstitch at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge.
Now the cutout is ready – clean and beautiful.
You can enclose any type and shape of cut-outs with a receipt. In the case of angular cutouts, a corresponding cut must then be made. Try it out!
If you do not want to stitch the receipt on from the outside, for example because your fabric is very fine or your front part has folds or puckers, then sew the receipt onto the shoulder seams with a few hand stitches.
Have fun sewing!
Would you like to neatly frame a cutout edge on the neck or arm with a receipt? Here we show you how you can do it safely.