Sabberlatz Mini-We – sewing instructions including sewing pattern
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It’s done – the fourth part of this year’s DIY challenge “We’re sewing baby equipment” is these drool spots in two versions and two types of closure. Since I’ve read in various parent forums that you can never have enough bibs, I sewed four pieces. It took me an hour per drool (for the Swabians: Trialer ;-)) with all the trimmings. The devil is really in the details, but everything is possible, even for beginners.
My W6 N 1235/61 * is used again as a sewing machine. Of course you can also use another sewing machine, please adjust the stitch settings accordingly. I wish you a lot of fun and it applies again: If you want, you can email me your finished work as a photo so that I can publish it here on the blog.
You need these materials and equipment for a drooling bib
You don’t need a lot – some jersey for the front, terrycloth or something similar for the back, Velcro or Kam Snaps and the usual tailoring material.
Sewing machine (e.g. the W6 N 1235/61 *)
Jersey for the front approx. 20 cm x 30 cm
Terrycloth * or other absorbent material for the back approx. 20 cm x 30 cm
Jersey sewing machine needle *
Sewing thread * (color to match your jersey fabric)
Tailor’s Chalk *
Velcro approx. 3 cm or Kam Snaps *
Cloth clips *
Rotary cutter *, cutting ruler * and cutting mat *
If necessary, edging tape made of stretchable jersey approx. 3 cm x 101 cm
If necessary, sewing needle (for sewing the turning opening together by hand for the variant without binding)
This is how you sew the drooling bib Mini-We
Variant 1 – drool bib without edging
Sabberlatz Mini-We: Variant without edging
Variant 1 is particularly easy to sew. You print out the pattern and transfer it to the fabric with the tailor’s chalk *, i. H. once on the jersey fabric for the front and once on the fabric for the back. Get to the fabric scissors and cut along the line, because the seam allowance is already included.
You put the two pieces of fabric right sides together, i.e. H. the beautiful sides are on the inside and the outside looks at you. You set the stitch type on your sewing machine to the elastic zigzag stitch. With the W6 N 1235/61 * I use, the stitch pattern is D, stitch length 2, stitch width 3 and an upper thread tension of 3. On one side you leave an opening of approx. 5 cm for later turning, as can be seen in the next photo .
Drooling Mini-We: Sew the fabric pieces together with the elastic zigzag stitch. The fabric scissors point to the turning opening.
Turn the inside out through the opening. Make sure to shape the corners well. Next up is the lock. I chose Kam Snaps, which was very quick and easy with the right tool. As can be seen in the next photo, you need Kam Snap pliers, an awl and the four individual parts for the actual Kam Snap * closure (2 x caps with a round head and tip, 1 x stud with a rough back, 1 x socket with recess, that fits in the stud).
Drooling Mini-WE: Kam Snaps are used for the closure.
First, think about where you would like to attach the Kam Snap *, or alternatively the normal snap fastener, and make a mark there with the tailor’s chalk. Use the awl to carefully poke a hole through the markings.
Drool mini-WE: For the Kam Snap closure, first poke a hole with the awl.
Let’s start with the actual closure. To do this, put a cap from the outside through the hole inwards, so that the tip peeks through inside. On the tip you put the stud with the rough, bumpy side down and the protuberance of the stud points to you, as in the next picture.
Sabberlatz Mini-We: A cap and a stud for the Kam Snap are attached to the front.
With the Kam Snap pliers you can easily attach the lock. To do this, place the cap on the side with the black plastic surface of the pliers and the stud on the side with the softer, transparent rubber part. With light pressure you squeeze the pliers together and that’s it for the first page.
Sabberlatz Mini-We: The parts of the Kam Snap are pressed together with the Kam Snap pliers. Little pressure is enough here.
Now for the second … Similar game as on the first page, but this time you put the cap inside out, so that the tip points outwards through the hole. Then put the socket on it so that it fits into the stud on the other side. Grab the Kam Snap pliers again. The black side goes on the cap, the transparent side on the socket and you press the two parts firmly into place. Finally, it is best to check again whether the parts are really firm. If not, press down lightly with the pliers.
The drool bib is almost ready. With a mattress stitch, also known as a ladder stitch, you manually close the turning opening. Since I don’t really like to sew by hand myself, I thought about a variant without a reversible opening, but with edging tape.
Variant 2 – drooling bib with edging
Sabberlatz Mini-We: Variant with edging
The second variant is particularly interesting for those who, like me, do not like to sew any turning openings by hand. On the other hand, the sewing of the edging tape on the outside is a bit tricky and the rule here is “practice makes perfect”. It wasn’t quite perfect for me either, but the second bib was much faster and easier.
So, what do you need now? You cut out two pieces of fabric using the pattern (1 x front, 1 x back), and additionally a long strip of stretchable material, e.g. B. stretch jersey or cuffs for the binding. It is best to cut the long strip with a rotary cutter * on the cutting mat * so that the long cut is as straight and clean as possible. As an alternative to the Kam Snaps, I used Velcro this time so that the neck width can be adjusted more variably. To do this, you cut a 3 cm Velcro fastener to size.
Sabberlatz Mini-We: For the variant with edging, you need edging and Velcro in addition to the two pieces of fabric.
You lay the fabric pieces on top of each other, left sides facing, i.e. H. the beautiful side is looking at you. You clamp the binding with the fabric clips * on the two pieces of fabric on the right on the back of the drool bib. The whole thing looks like the next photo.
Sabberlatz Mini-We: The edging tape is clamped on the back.
On the sewing machine, you set yourself the elastic zigzag stitch again and sew as close as possible all along the outer edge. It gets a little challenging with the curves. You stretch the edging strip in the outwardly curved curves and on the inwardly curved ones you gather them a little. Take your time and sew particularly slowly, then you will also take this challenge. I let the end of the edging tape overlap the beginning by approx. 1 cm. The edge does not need to be serged, the jersey or cuffs do not fray. You just cut away the rest of the tape.
Drooling Mini-We. The edging tape is sewn on the back with the elastic zigzag stitch.
If you, like me, did not sew really close to the edge, you can cut away the excess fabric with the fabric scissors. But do not cut the seam 😉
Now fold the strip over to the front of the bib, fold the open edge again and sew it on with a straight stitch. For the straight stitch, set stitch pattern A for the W6. Make sure to stretch the fabric as little as possible when sewing it to avoid rippling at the edge. Finally you sew on the Velcro fastener with the straight stitch and this drooling bib is also ready.
Sabberlatz Mini-We: The Velcro fastener is also sewn on with the straight stitch.
Personally, I like the version with the binding better – but what do you think? With or without edging and Kam Snaps or Velcro?
Sabberlatz Mini-We: One and the same pattern, but many designs.
So, goodbye and see you Sunday next week. Then there is a new DIY guide as part of the sewing challenge. So much can be revealed: It will be a sleeping bag.
It’s done – the fourth part of this year’s DIY challenge “We’re sewing baby equipment” is these drool spots in two versions and two types of closure. Since I’ve read in various parent forums that you can never have enough bibs, I sewed four pieces. It took me an hour per drooling place (for the Swabians: Trialer ;-)) with all the trimmings. …